Unsung Serenity

Timeless and sublime, the dusty approach to the forest temple of Prasat Prei Basack is without parallel. Flocks of birds lazily rise from a shimmering lake, cows and buffaloes lethargically chew their cud.

The mountain temple has a fascinating history, the temple originally went under a completely different name said Mr. Pout Yot, Chief of the Tourism Department in Svay Rieng.

"Before the name was Toul Prasat." he said. "Afterwards, many Vietnamese came to do business here. When they arrived over the border, they always stopped here to take a rest. Their pronunciation of Toul Prasat was not clear, so others heard it as Toul Basack. Today even Khmers call this place Toul Basack."

Mr. Ey Ry is Chief of the Culture and Fine Arts department in Svay Rieng province. He said Prei Basack was built in the early 6th century in Sambor Prek kuk style. The temple was apparently built to commemorate a military victory.

"Long time ago, the local king collected a mighty army to south-east of here," he said. "They camped on the site of Prei Basack soon became a religious center, welcoming Buddhists and Brahmans alike. Many monuments were constructed, though little remains today. Previously, three ancient temple stood on the hill, the largest. Toul Prei Prasat (Forest termite mound temple). was around 200m long. To the south stood Toul Kouk Sampov and Toul Ta-chorng.

Only the base of Toul Prei Prasat is left. The structure must once have been impressive. The clay walls that remain are still around 5 metres high. Ey Ry said the temple was destroyed by greedy French soldiers searching for buried treasure. They apparently forced Khmer prisoners to demolish the temple and dig deep into the loamy soil, A copper Buddha and gold weighing 14 kg was carted of.

The temples might be gone, but locals still fear and respect the spirits who dwell in the thick forest. Mr Choum Auy has lived at Prei Basack since 1979. He said people who come to visit this temple must abstain from speech so as not to anger the spirits.

" Even I am afraid to lose my way here." he said. "If you get lost , your friends will not be able to help you. Only by lighting five incense sticks and apologisng to the spirits can the spirits can you find the path again."

Mrs Sao Neun , 70 , complained the new generation no longer respect the supernatural forces at Prei Basack. "Untillrecently , people in nearby villages always went to pray and borrow a plate or bowl from the spirits before any celebration." she said. "Now, because people did not give back the plates to the spirits, the spirits aren't as helpful."

Prei Basack spririts must not be underestimated however. They still remain powerful, Neun said. " If a thief steals a cow or buffalo and brings it past Prei Basack they will lose their way." she said. "The owner will find the thief and get his cow back. This protection is why people in this village respect and thank the Prei Basack spirits. Whenever we want success in something, we alway go to pray there."

The spirits also protects vulnerable girls to a girl in Pre Basac." she warned "Anyone who does will be punished by the spirits."

Change is coming to Prei Basack. A new concrete temple has been constructed. Gaudy and crude, the concrete Wat only has kitsch appeal.

"The pitiless French Ruthlessly destroyed our original temple," said Pout "We have no other tourism sites in Svay Rieng besides Prei Basack so, to attract tourists, we built a small temple in 2005."


The surrounding forest is now managed to ensure the beauty of the environment. Towering Deun Chheu Teal trees provide shade while myriad birds chirp from the undergrowth, Few tourists chirp from the undergrowth. Few tourists visit, despite the tranquil setting.

" We used to get a lot of tourists from the local area." said Pout, "Now there aren't so many. Wed never have people from Phnom Penh. I think very few know about about this place."

The dearth of visitors has not put Pout off.

" We have more plans for the future." he said. " We will build toilets, bathrooms, rocking chars, hammocks, small cottages, and even a zoo."

Pride is a motivating factor for Pout.

"It's not just about money, " he said, "We want Prei Basack to get the recognition it deserves."